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Snap On Digital Torque Wrench – Electronic Torque Wrench | Snap-on Tool Tips

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Introduce about Electronic Torque Wrench | Snap-on Tool Tips

In this episode of Snap-on Tool Tips, we go over the one tool all technicians should have in their toolbox; the Electronic Torque Wrench. The powerful and vast torque range paired with the extremely durable build quality means that this one of the most capable tools around.





Snap-on Tools is a subsidiary of Snap-on Incorporated, a global leader in hand and power tools, tool storage (including the EPIQ, Masters, Classic and Heritage series tool boxes) shop equipment, diagnostics (including the ETHOS®, MODIS ™, SOLUS™, and VERUS® families of scanners), repair information and systems solutions for professional users. Subscribers to the Snap-on Tools channel get access to the latest product demo videos and diagnostics tech tips and training solutions, as well as videos highlighting the company’s work within the professional racing industry.

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  1. I hope these are better than the CDI version, because the mechanism in the ratchet head of the CDI's is known to leave the factory without any grease causing the head to bind up under load. Mine does that.

  2. Should I get the 3/8” (5-125 ft-lb) or 1/2” (12.5-200 ft-lb) for timing belt job? I originally thought the 1/2” is too long to work under the car (without lift) and not as frequently used than the 3/8”, but don’t know if the shorter 3/8” is sufficient to torque down the crank shaft of my Acura….

  3. Piece of high-price junk. I have a 1/4", 3/8", and a 1/2" Techangle and 2 of them have exactly the same problem.. Both the 1/2" and the 3/8" worked for about 2 years of very light use and then quit working. The problem were the ground wire that runs from the circuit board to the brass screw down cap. It got undone and will turn itself off in the middle of torquing down a fastener. Send them back to Snap On for service and it worked for another 6 months and the problem re-appeared on both of them. Finally did my own teardown to address the problem and sure enough found the ground wire to be loose on both of them. Try to re-solder the connectors and it was a frustrating task because working on soldering these electronics parts is not an easy task for any mechanic who is not skilled in micro-electronic soldering without making a mess. The factory uses spot soldering, but it would be a bitch for the home mechanic to try to work on these task. So after paying royally for these torque wrenches and sending to Snap On for service which again being charged royally because it is out of warranty and then spending time and effort trying to rectify it myself, I finally gave up and throw these away.. Snap On might be the premier hand tool brand but when it comes to electronics, IT SUCKS BIG TIME.

  4. I’m Jordon butler I really like these torque wrenches, blind fold some body set down ten torque wrenches and let that person find the snap on I promise you they will have no problem finding it, I ordered a new 84” epiq in storm gray I’m anxious to get I wish it would hurry and come so I can show YouTube a storm gray 84”

  5. I have this in 3/8" & 1/2" drive, they're great.
    But what about the 1/2" 50-250 ft. lb click-type torque wrench? Whenever I try to research that torque wrench I see TONS of SnapOn bashing about it. People say it is no different than others in terms of accuracy and reliability. They say it's a way over priced tool that is only mediocre at best. I have even seen a video saying Harbor Freight was better! The multi million dollar SnapOn Company does not do anything in its defense to protect its reputation. Many written posts & blogs say they are made by CDI and only the ratcheting head is the only difference.
    With all the money SnapOn has and a reputation to uphold and protect WHY don't they do a total breakdown of the tool? Show all of the internal parts, the clicker, the spring, ratcheting head, everything. If I never see an actual reason to believe that the 1/2" drive 250 ft. lb. maximum click-type torque wrench is superior to say Precision, Tekton, or even CDI why should I spend $200 or even $300 dollars more on it?

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